Wire it Yourself.com - Do it Yourself Home Wiring Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
February 05, 2012, 09:32:58 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
465 Posts in 175 Topics by 238 Members
Latest Member: spazlab
* Home | Help | Search | Login | Register
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Wiring, 5th Edition, with DVD: Current with 2011-2013 Electrical Codes (Black & Decker Complete Guide) Wiring Simplified: Based on the 2011 National Electrical Code National Electrical Code 2011 Pocket Guide for Residential Electrical Installations (National Electrical Code (Nec) Pocket Guide Volume 1 Residential)
+  Wire it Yourself.com - Do it Yourself Home Wiring Forum
|-+  Electrical
| |-+  Electrical Wiring
| | |-+  Three Way Switches
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] | Go Down Print
Author Topic: Three Way Switches  (Read 1581 times)
deepsearov
Newbie
*
Posts: 2


« on: May 29, 2008, 06:33:58 PM »

I have wired a 3 way switch for a hall way. Used the diagrams i have found and the light works fine. The 2 switches have a glow indicator on them so when it is dark you can see them. The only problem that i am having is that when the light is off and the switches are glowing, the flourescent bulb flashes. It is very dim but when it is real dark you can see it flashing. I have checked the wiring over and over again. Also have made sure there are no loose connections and no wires touching. Is there something that i am missing?
Logged
JP
Administrator
Master Member
*****
Posts: 238



« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2008, 08:31:04 PM »


That is an interesting problem, it seems like your getting a little transient voltage. I have a similar setup in my home, I have 3-way lighted switches and they are controlling the new energy saver florescent lamps and don’t have that problem.

Are you using the florescent energy savers or is it a normal T-12 or T-8 fixture? Also are you 100% sure your 3-way switching is working properly? Each switch operating the fixture no matter what position the other switch is in?
Logged
deepsearov
Newbie
*
Posts: 2


« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2008, 09:40:12 AM »

I am using a flourescent light that has a 2 prong adaptor on the back of the bulb. Both switches operate the light no matter what position the other switch is in.
Logged
JP
Administrator
Master Member
*****
Posts: 238



« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2008, 05:26:52 PM »


I would proceed by using an electrical meter to track down the source of the voltage causing the problem. Start by checking the voltage at the fixture with the switches off. From there you could meter the switches to see if they are passing the same voltage you found at the light even when in the off position. The problem may simply be that the lighted switches are passing a small amount of voltage and the fixture is sensitive enough to be effected by it, or it could be more complicated.



Whenever working around live electrical equipment you should always exercise caution and conform to NFPA 70E standard for safe electrical work.
Logged
MoganDavid
Newbie
*
Posts: 1


« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2008, 11:09:15 AM »

have a different issue with three way switches.  have two bare bulb fixtures on garage ceiling that operate together from two different wall switches. want to change that.  have a 70W metal halide canopy light that I want to use as a work light off only ONE of the switches.  want the other existing porcelain fixture to work by itself from the other wall switch.  have purchased a 6 foot pre-wired conduit "fixture whip" in order to connect the canopy light with proper 160C wire, replacing one of the porcelain fixtures with a metal cover plate.  What must I do to accomplish this?????? 
Logged
JP
Administrator
Master Member
*****
Posts: 238



« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2008, 03:04:57 PM »


First you will need to locate where the feed is coming into the circuit. It could be in either switch or either light. The feed is the cable supplying the power to the lighting circuit you are working on.

Since you are splitting 1 circuit into two you will need a feed at each circuit. You can use the same feed but you will need to run a cable from the box where that feed enters the circuit to either the switch or the light of the other circuit, you will also most likely need a cable from one of the lights to a switch.

Now depending on exactly how the existing circuit wired, you may be able to use some of the existing interconnected 3-way wiring to connect power to the new circuit.

Once you have the interconnected wiring disconnected and a feed at each circuit you simply treat it as two single pole switch circuits. A cable from the light to the switch and a feed entering the circuit at either location using the switch to break the hot.
Logged
Pages: [1] | Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  


Fluke Corporation 322 AC Clamp Meter Greenlee TK-30 Basic Electrical Kit Klein CL200 600 Amp AC Clamp Meter with Temperature Sensor
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 2.0.1 | SMF © 2006-2011, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.083 seconds with 23 queries.